Read the label

A fine wool from merino sheep.

Good: Soft against skin, warm for its weight, regulates temperature, resists odour.

Watch: Pills a little at friction points; fine knits can wear thin at elbows.

Care: Cool wool wash or by hand, dry flat.

Undercoat fibre of cashmere goats.

Good: Very soft, light and warm.

Watch: Pills, especially when the fibres are short or blended; the cheapest cashmere pills most.

Care: Hand wash cool, dry flat, de-pill with a comb.

Fleece of the alpaca.

Good: Warm, light, a soft halo.

Watch: Can shed and feel itchy to some.

Care: Hand wash cool, dry flat.

Hair of the angora goat.

Good: Lustrous, airy, warm for its weight.

Watch: Fuzzy texture sheds; can itch.

Care: Hand wash cool, dry flat.

Sheep’s fleece.

Good: Warm, breathable, springs back from creases, resists odour.

Watch: Coarser wools can itch; moths like it.

Care: Air between wears; wool wash or dry clean; store clean.

Filament spun by silkworms.

Good: Smooth, light, drapes beautifully, comfortable across temperatures.

Watch: Marks with water and sweat; weakened by sunlight.

Care: Hand wash cool or dry clean; no wringing.

Fibre from the flax plant.

Good: Cool, breathable, strong, softens with every wash.

Watch: Creases readily: that is part of the look, not a fault.

Care: Machine wash, dry gently, iron damp if you want it crisp.

Fibre from the hemp plant.

Good: Strong, breathable, linen-like.

Watch: Stiff at first; creases.

Care: Machine wash.

Seed fibre of the cotton plant.

Good: Breathable, soft, easy to wash, comfortable next to skin.

Watch: Creases, dries slowly, can shrink in hot washes.

Care: Machine wash at 30–40 °C.

Tanned animal hide.

Good: Durable, moulds to the foot or body, can be repaired.

Watch: Needs feeding and rest between wears; cheap finishes crack.

Care: Clean, condition, use shoe trees.

Leather with a brushed, napped surface.

Good: Soft, rich colour, relaxed look.

Watch: Marks with water and oil.

Care: Protective spray, suede brush.

Cellulose fibre made from wood pulp in a closed-loop solvent process.

Good: Smooth, drapes well, breathable, stronger than viscose.

Watch: Can crease and mark; less forgiving in hot washes.

Care: Gentle cool wash.

Cellulose fibre made from beech wood pulp.

Good: Very soft, drapes, resists shrinking better than viscose.

Watch: Can pill over time.

Care: Gentle cool wash.

Cellulose fibre made from cotton linter.

Good: Silky, breathable; a good lining.

Watch: Delicate.

Care: Hand wash or dry clean.

Cellulose fibre made from wood pulp by chemical processing.

Good: Soft, drapes, breathes better than synthetics, takes colour well.

Watch: Weak when wet, shrinks and creases; wears faster than cotton.

Care: Cool, gentle wash; never wring.

Semi-synthetic fibre made from cellulose.

Good: Lustrous, drapes; used for linings.

Watch: Delicate, heat-sensitive.

Care: Dry clean or cool hand wash.

A stretch fibre, used in small amounts.

Good: A few per cent adds stretch and shape recovery.

Watch: Breaks down with heat and age: often the first part of a garment to give up.

Care: Avoid hot washes and tumble drying.

Oil-based synthetic fibre.

Good: Very strong; in blends it adds durability.

Watch: Low breathability; can hold odour.

Care: Machine wash cool.

Oil-based synthetic fibre, used to imitate wool.

Good: Cheap warmth, light, holds colour.

Watch: Pills readily and breathes poorly; warmth without wool’s comfort.

Care: Machine wash cool, dry flat.

Oil-based synthetic fibre (or recycled from plastic).

Good: Durable, holds its shape and a crease, dries quickly, cheap.

Watch: Breathes poorly and can hold odour; sheds microfibres when washed; in blends it can make fibres pill and stay on.

Care: Machine wash cool; wash less, air more.

A plastic coating, used for faux leather.

Good: Cheap, leather-like when new.

Watch: Cracks and peels with age; cannot be repaired.

Care: Wipe clean.